What GSM Can 24s/1 and 38s/1 Cotton-Hemp Yarn Produce?

Signed by Imperium Fiber•
Imperium Fiber Journal title card reading 'What GSM Can 24s/1 and 38s/1 Cotton-Hemp Yarn Produce?' in white type on a deep cyan gradient.

24s/1 and 38s/1 cotton-hemp yarn do not produce one GSM. GSM is cloth weight. Count is yarn size. The same 24s/1 cotton-hemp yarn can make a lighter or heavier sheet depending on how many ends and picks the loom puts in, and on how much the yarns crimp. What follows is mill arithmetic for a balanced plain weave, not a lab report from one roll.

Imperium Fiber spins cotton-hemp yarn for US Hemp / US Supima home goods. Whether the hemp can share the frame is can US-grown hemp be spun with Supima cotton. Whether those cloths land in a bedding thread-count band is 120–200 TC bed linen. The route is the US-grown hemp textile supply chain. More lives in the Journal.

What Cotton-Hemp Yarn Count Does and Does Not Fix

English cotton count, Ne, counts hanks per pound. A higher number is a finer yarn. The "/1" means a single, not a ply. 24s/1 is coarser than 38s/1. Linear density in tex is 590.5 divided by Ne, so 24s/1 is about 24.6 tex and 38s/1 is about 15.5 tex. That conversion is the cotton-system definition mills use. It is not a hemp-only numbering system.

Cloth GSM for one square meter is the mass of warp plus the mass of weft. For each direction, grams per square meter are threads per inch times tex times 0.03937. Double it for a balanced cloth, then add crimp, because the yarn path is longer than the cloth length. A 6 percent crimp allowance is a typical plain-sheeting assumption. It is not a measurement of an Imperium lot. USDA hemp rules cover the crop, not the loom sett. Sett is the mill's decision.

GSM from 24s/1 and 38s/1 Cotton-Hemp Yarn

Read the table as a planning range. Cover factor is threads per inch divided by the square root of Ne. Plain weave gets hard to beat up once each side is near 14, a combined cover near 28. Past that, the cloth is a sateen problem, not a plain-weave promise.

24s/1 Cotton-Hemp Yarn at a 120 TC Sett

A balanced 60 by 60 ends and picks is 120 thread count if thread count means ends plus picks. At 24s/1 that is about 116 GSM before crimp and about 123 GSM with 6 percent crimp. Cover factor is about 12.2 on each side, a normal plain cloth. This is the straightforward sheeting weight for 24s/1 cotton-hemp yarn: linen-like body without a jammed reed.

24s/1 Cotton-Hemp Yarn Has a Plain-Weave Ceiling

Push 24s/1 toward 70 by 70 and thread count is about 140. GSM is about 136 before crimp and about 144 with 6 percent. Cover factor is about 14.3 per side, the upper edge of ordinary plain weave. A 100 by 100 sett in 24s/1 would be 200 thread count and a cover factor near 20 per side. That is not a realistic plain sheeting. Do not quote a 200 GSM-class 24s plain cloth as if the loom will accept it. If the program needs 200 thread count, move to 38s/1 cotton-hemp yarn.

38s/1 Cotton-Hemp Yarn Is the Finer GSM Band

38s/1 at 60 by 60 is still 120 thread count, but only about 73 GSM before crimp and about 78 with 6 percent. That cloth is light and open. Cover factor is under 10. The useful 38s/1 setts are denser. At 80 by 80, thread count is 160 and GSM is about 98 before crimp, about 104 with 6 percent. At 100 by 100, thread count is 200 and GSM is about 122 before crimp, about 130 with 6 percent, with cover factor about 16 per side. Treat 200 thread count on 38s/1 as a tight construction, often kinder as a sateen than as a jammed plain weave. The home program's ultra-fine tier is 40s/1, slightly finer than 38s/1, for the premium hand on home goods.

How to Put Cotton-Hemp Yarn GSM on a Tech Pack

Quote a range, then lock it with a weave trial.

Write Count, Sett, and GSM Together

A tech pack that says "24s cotton-hemp, 150 GSM" without ends and picks cannot be costed. Write 24s/1 or 38s/1, hemp and Supima percentages, ends, picks, weave, and a GSM target. The arithmetic above is the check that the target is weaveable.

Do Not Treat GSM as a Health Claim

GSM changes hand, warmth, and how the sheet drapes. It does not change the fiber. Cotton-hemp yarn is still cellulose. It does not shed polyester microplastic. Bedroom exposure and easy-care chemistry stay in polyester bedding. NOAA is the debris frame for plastic fiber, not a GSM specification.

Ask for a Cut of the Cotton-Hemp Yarn You Will Weave

Calculated GSM is the planning number. The shipping number is a weighed cut after finishing, because singeing, piece dyeing, and compacting move weight. Send the sett you want to hello@heartland.io. Imperium Fiber will match count to program. The standard behind the hemp is the HFGA US Hemp Textile Standard.